Dinner and a Show

At The Shack, dining is its own reward

Robert Lillegard

In the popular TV drama Mad Men, set in a 1960s ad agency in New York City, the impossibly cool main character Don Draper spends a lot of time in restaurants (with clients, with his wife, with colleagues) enjoying the ambiance of dark-wood paneling and deep booths, eating prime rib and home-made soup while drinking martinis. Maybe he’d see a show with his dinner, maybe he’d catch a comedian, maybe he’d just revel in the great food, but it was always an event. If Don Draper were somehow transported to Duluth~Superior, you’d find him at the Shack.

By providing a classy, engaging environment, owner Doug Dalager wants to return to the days when eating out was a social event.

“My parents would go out, they’d get all dressed up, and it was a big thing to go out,” Dalager says. “We’re trying to bring back live entertainment and the dining experience.”

Part of that old flavor is the ambiance. Though The Shack has been updating its look, it’s still very much a supper club. Old wood panels and classic carpeting are lit up by glass lamps, and the wholesome kid’s menu looks like an import from 1955. In the theatre room, large black-and-white line paintings of jazz musicians adorn the walls. Even the wait staff contains a piece of history— “Gramma Trudy” has been waiting tables since 1980.

“She is so caring, our most requested server,” Dalager said. “She’s a character. She is just a classic.”

The food is classic, too. The Shack was built on prime rib, and after twenty years, the recipe is perfect. Where most restaurants cook prime rib overnight, head chef Mike DeGraef starts by flash-cooking it in a 450 degree oven. That keeps the rib truly rare in the center until it’s ready to eat.

“Without a doubt, it’s the best prime rib in town,” Dalager said, “And I’ll stand by that as long as I breathe.”

Sides, salads, and soups are traditionally American, with a straightforward mix of clam chowder, chicken Alfredo, and French Fries. Crab cakes and lobster represent the oceans, along with “seafood lollipops”—grilled shrimp and scallops with an Asian-inspired sauce. A few vegetarian items round out the menu.

This clean-cut, hearty food is appropriate for banquets. With weddings, funerals, and company Christmas parties, The Shack has hosted 10,000 over the past twenty years. The five meeting rooms are open 364 days a year, and Dalager said the restaurant is a favorite for fraternal organizations and local businesses.

But at nightfall, the Shack kicks back. Dalager has added a show area, complete with a modular stage and its own sound system for performances. The choices are many. For only $35, dinner theatre gives you a show with your steak. From 7 to 9 p.m. every Thursday, local jazz celebrity Ryan Frane plays with a trio. And twice a month, nationally-known comedians pack the house. The ultimate goal, Dalager said, is to make dining fun.

“In this day and age, what do we do most of the time? We sit in front of a screen,” Dalager said. “[But] in Europe, you go out, and you dine. You have an experience.”

That experience extends to the food. Each month, Dalager challenges customers with rotating special features. Cream cheese and green olive burgers, chicken skewers with peanut sauce, or pork tenderloin with sauerkraut add a touch of zest to the menu.

The drink menu is even more vibrant. The Shack provides 20 wines by the glass, beer from the Thirsty Pagan brewery, and a 32 ounce rum punch it calls “Bong Water”. Six different mojitos, ten different martinis, and the usual mixed drinks round out the list. Particularly noticeable is the 25 ounce “Megatini”, a cocktail for the manly man. With a happy hour from 2 to 7 pm daily (and 9–11 pm during the week), there are plenty of opportunities for sales.

Whether he’s dealing with massive martinis or famous comedians, Dalager’s aim is the same. Since taking over The Shack in 2005, he’s been adding, changing, and tweaking to turn the old-fashioned supper club into a hotspot for the next century.

“Slowly but surely, we’re trying to improve the facility,” Dalager said. “Our goal is to be perceived as the best restaurant in Superior.”

 

What to know when you go

The Shack Smokehouse and Grill
3301 Belknap Street, Superior
(715) 392-3463
shackonline.com

Open 11am–11pm every day except Christmas

Happy Hour 2–7pm daily and 9–11pm