Greek Revival: Grape Vine Café

Mix food, entertaining and family and you’ve got one of the newest restaurants in Duluth

Dave Boe

Some of the most memorable moments in my military career include two trips I took to the island of Crete, just south of the Greek mainland, in the 1980s. There, I experienced all Greece had to offer: the ancient Mycenae ruins, quaint villages, bustling cities with seaside shops, the blue-green Mediterranean Sea, ouzo, topless beaches, friendly women, and not-so-friendly Greek boyfriends of those women. And, of course, the food. Raised on hot dishes and cold cereal, Greek food was a new experience for me —lamb and potatoes, gyros, calamari, octopus, spanakopita, baklava — it was friendly food, neither too bold nor hot, but simply flavored with olive oil, feta, spices, sauces and lemon.

Returning to Duluth after my stint in the military I discovered only one truly Greek restaurant, Natchios, which closed soon after I hit town. Otherwise, one could pick up the occasional gyros or baklava at a few places around town. Greek weddings, church dinners and other events, like the annual Taste of Greece festival helped, but I thought it was well past time for another estiatorio in Duluth. That time has finally come.

The Grape Vine Café, which opened in October, is a true labor of love for the Livadaros family. Patriarch and part owner, Alex, says the Grape Vine Café is a modest reminder of a larger restaurant his father and grandfather ran in Athens years ago. “I promised myself that when I got older I would never wash another dish, so that’s why I became an engineer,” says Alex. “But bad luck, here I am! And I may have to wash dishes for her.”

“Her” is Alex’s wife, Debra, keeper of the Livadaros family recipes and chief manager of Grape Vine. Having lived in Greece in the early 80s, Debra is proud everything on the menu will have the name Livadaros on it. “The recipes have been in the family for many years and with our daughters Katy and Christina, and son Jason by my side, growing up and watching and making food with me has become a family affair,” says Debra. “Everything here is made from scratch, as it should be.”

In charge of making those secret recipes into something customers will devour is Jason Livadaros. A veteran chef who worked the grills at a top-listed Greek restaurant in New Mexico, and made the local rounds at Bellisio’s, Little Angie’s and the Boathouse, Jason is glad to be back cooking his first love and working side-by-side with his mother and Christina, who is the services and beverages manager.

“It’s simply a wonderful feeling to be cooking my ethnic food,” says Jason. “The average customer will soon find out that Greek food is a lot more than just gyros, baklava and moussaka.”

Indeed it is. I flip through the menu and my stomach sighs. There is a lot to choose from here. Despite having married into the local Solon family more than 10 years ago, I still butcher many of the dish names. Take spanikopita. I call it “spank your pita.” That said, the dish, which is spinach, feta and spices wrapped in pastry and baked, is a family and customer favorite, whether as an appetizer or entrée.

Lunch and dinner specials include moussaka, souvlaki, pasticho, dolmathes, chicken and lamb, served with rice pilaf, Greek-baked potatoes and sautéed vegetables, and additional soup or salad for dinners.

Appetizers, like tirosalata, skorthalia and the flaming saganaki, are equally tongue twisting, but tasty.

Sandwiches, salads, soups and deserts, both traditional Greek or American, are in abundance, including the ubiquitous gyros, served in various styles. A kid’s menu includes favorites like hamburgers and chicken strips for those picky youngsters not ready to embrace the Greek life. Daily and weekly specials are also offered. There’s even a burger called the My Big Fat Greek Burger. I’m not surprised.

What did surprise me, though, was the breakfast menu. Grape Vine is open at 6:00 am, Monday through Saturday, and it offers some unique takes on American morning favorites, like the gyro scrambler, tomato, basil and mozzarella omelet or traditional greek toast.

Lake Superior Brewery beer is available, along with Greek beer and wine. No ouzo or metaxas, though.

The atmosphere is traditionally Greek. Blue and white colors dominate, and the walls are covered with Greek artifacts and Livadaros family photos. Greek music is piped through the narrow restaurant. On occasion, musicians playing bouzoukis and clarinets will be on hand, accompanied by dancers. When possible, Alex drifts among the tables, assisting service and answering questions from customers. Sort of a walking Greek Wikipedia.

The name is refreshingly not so obvious for a Greek restaurant. Debra says they had a hard time agreeing on a name that would be recognizable and not too clichéd. In true Greek fashion, Alex whips out an icon and explains the Greek Orthodox references to grapes and how they relate to the food service business. Works for me.

One of the things that struck me during my visits to Crete was the passion Greeks had for food, entertaining and, most importantly, family. Those ingredients are all present at Grape Vine Café and make for an enjoyable and truly Greek dining experience. Kali orexi!

What to Know When You Go

Grape Vine Café
220 West Superior Street, Duluth

Hours:
Monday – Saturday 6:00 am to 2:00 pm
Thursday – Saturday 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm
Appetizers $5 - $12 Breakfast $4 - $10 Lunch $10 - $15 Dinner $12 - $22