Duluth Superior Magazine / February 2012 / Milwaukee in the Winter

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Milwaukee in the Winter

Willie Nelson celebrated the city of New Orleans, Elvis Presley sang the praises of Las Vegas, and Will Smith welcomed us to Miami. It’s strange, then, that no one seems to be singing about Milwaukee. While Wisconsin’s largest city may not have the shallow, flash-in-the-pan qualities of conventional winter destinations (like above-freezing temperatures), it’s got a charm all its own. My wife and I visited recently and we were both surprised and impressed. From downtown ice skating and the beautiful boardwalk to fresh baked doughnuts and cozy B and Bs, you’ll find plenty to love in this Midwest mecca.

What To Eat

If you thought the Apollo space missions were carefully planned, you should see how I approach eating in an unfamiliar city. I don’t view serendipity as a friend so much as an enemy to be wrestled with, stabbed with a dagger of Yelp reviews, and buried in a pile of city magazine articles and local foodie blogs. While certain wives take issue with this level of research, it’s definitely the most efficient way to suss out the good restaurants from the bad.

Conejito’s, for example, was a great find. This dimly lit dive bar in the heart of the city’s Mexican dining district is known for huge, cheap plates of chicken mole, Mexican beef ribs, and homemade (!) margaritas. The refried beans, rice, and thick mole sauce are hearty and well balanced, and almost nothing on the menu is over five dollars.

On the other end of the spectrum, Milwaukee restaurateurs Joe and Paul Bartolotta own a number of highly acclaimed restaurants. From the seasonal Italian fare at Ristorante Bartolotta to the romantic lakeside views (and top-notch Dover Sole) at the Lake Park Bistro, you’ll find plenty to love.

Finally, Milwaukee is shot through with doughnut stores. If the words Krispy Kreme don’t evoke paradise on earth, the fact that these doughnuts are baked right at the store should.

Where To Stay

My wife and I stayed with friends, but other lodging in this city runs the gamut. Budget-minded travelers will find all the usual chains (Econo Lodge, Comfort Inn and Suites, etc) with a quick Google search, but if you’re willing to pay a little more you’ll find some unique spots.

The Iron Horse Hotel is a good example. This downtown hotel has a rustic-chic look, with plenty of exposed brick and timber paying tribute to its past as a 100-year-old timber frame construction warehouse. Plus, they offer special amenities to motorcycle enthusiasts, like an on-site bike wash station, bike rentals, and even custom hooks in the rooms for heavy leather jackets.

If you’re looking for a more intimate feel, check out the Manderley Bed and Breakfast. Built in 1886, this spacious Victorian home has been restored with an eye towards nature-inspired art. Fireplaces, woodwork, and stained glass make this a place to remember, as do fresh-baked treats like poppy seed scones with house made lemon curd.

What To Do

In the winter, there are few things as fun as skating downtown at Red Arrow Park. The skating is free, the skate rentals are cheap, and they even cater to people like me. When my feet start hurting (estimated time: ten minutes), I can just head inside to the warming shack, which includes a Starbucks, a bakery, and full windows where I can keep watch over the ice.

I’ve also enjoyed spending time on the Milwaukee RiverWalk. This nearly three mile long promenade passes by restaurants, shopping and more as it follows the Milwaukee River. It’s a beautiful view of downtown and a great place to walk off a meal.

Once you’ve had your fill of being outside, check out the Marcus Center for Performing Arts. This downtown arts hub has hosted everything from Broadway to ballet to the Blue Man Group, and even some events that don’t start with “b”. You’ll find event listings and contact information at www.marcuscenter.org/.

I love Milwaukee, and not just because my friends like to buy me dinner when I visit. The city by the lake is like Duluth’s big brother: a little warmer, a little larger, and a lot more doughnut-filled. And really, what more could you ask of a perfect February getaway?